Topic: Bone Nut and Saddle?

I'm having my 36 year old Yamaha FG-260 (12 string) set up. Should I opt for a bone nut/saddle while I'm at it? Current nut/sadlle are OEM and are functional.

I'm sure this will boil down to personal preference but I have no way of comparing. This is my first potential foray into adding former (animal?) skeletal structure to my wood and steel source of joy.

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

I'd keep it OEM.... On a 12 string you have to worry about it getting too much going on.... To much sustain can muddy everything IMO.... Mr Collins himself (Collins guitars) said that if you want a good 12 string don't order a custom built with all the extras just go out and buy a Yamaha smile

[b][color=#FF0000]If your brain is part of the process, you're missing it. You should play like a drowning man, struggling to reach shore. If you can trap that feeling, then you have something.
[/color][/b]         [b]Peace of mind. That's my piece of mind...[/b]

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

What is the tonal difference in bone vs tusq and are there any other inexpensive materials that are used that are good choices for replacing nut and saddles? The reason i ask is i just broke the OEM saddle on my 9yr old Taki while sanding it down to lower the action and i'm looking to upgrade.

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Here's a quick guide that may help you decide... It really all depends on the tonal changes you want from your guitar for your style of play.

-Tusq can add a moderate amount of treble, sustain, clarity & volume to your guitar.
-Bone offers everything Tusq provides, but in bigger doses.
-Ebony can add bass and warmth.
-Buffalo Horn sounds almost identical to bone, and is a great choice if you want a dark looking saddle with bone tone.
-Walrus Jawbone offers the fundamental tone of bone but with better overtones & fatter harmonics.
-Mammoth Ivory can add sustain, volume, and a transparent richness to your guitar, with an increase in harmonics & overtones!
-Walrus Ivory provides the greatest increase in volume, sustain & clarity.


I'll add that if it has a USP (Under saddle pick-up) then tusq is a popular choice because it has a more consistent desity. In other words you don't get more sound transfer at different points of the saddle causing some strings to stand out more than others. Hope that helps! -Pix

[b][color=#FF0000]If your brain is part of the process, you're missing it. You should play like a drowning man, struggling to reach shore. If you can trap that feeling, then you have something.
[/color][/b]         [b]Peace of mind. That's my piece of mind...[/b]

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Very interesting reading. We never get too old to learn.

When the Power of Love overcomes The Love of Power the world will be a better place.

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Thanks Pix. You never fail to be helpful with the info.

7 (edited by flester 2009-10-20 13:03:39)

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Guitarpix wrote:

I'd keep it OEM.... On a 12 string you have to worry about it getting too much going on.... To much sustain can muddy everything IMO.... Mr Collins himself (Collins guitars) said that if you want a good 12 string don't order a custom built with all the extras just go out and buy a Yamaha smile

Interesting comment. Sometimes a 12-string just has 'too much sound' (if you know what I mean). Structure is important in a 12-string i.e. the extra string tension can deform things over time if not built right, but if it's still good after 36 years it probably was. As was my 1979 Ovation 1615 12-er.

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

flester wrote:

Interesting comment. Sometimes a 12-string just has 'too much sound' (if you know what I mean). Structure is important in a 12-string i.e. the extra string tension can deform things over time if not built right, but if it's still good after 36 years it probably was. As was my 1979 Ovation 1615 12-er.

You're right most 12 strings that are kept strung to pitch will form a belly below the bridge and/or pull the neck forward over time requiring a reset. There's not many that age really well.... I always kept mine tuned down one full step and if I wanted to play in standard I just capo'd on the 2nd. This helped prevent any damge to the guitar and also with less string tension it gave it a slighly mellower sound that I liked as often times 12 strings can get too twangy for my taste. -Pix

[b][color=#FF0000]If your brain is part of the process, you're missing it. You should play like a drowning man, struggling to reach shore. If you can trap that feeling, then you have something.
[/color][/b]         [b]Peace of mind. That's my piece of mind...[/b]

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Thanks Guitarpix! I took your advice and stuck with the OEM stuff so as not to have "too much going on". With the 12-string that can easily happen. I did get the action lowered slightly and was happy to have this baby back in my hands.

With all the saddle/nut material options I was surprised NOT to see "eye of newt"!

Re: Bone Nut and Saddle?

Thanks for the info Pix.I need to replace the saddles on a couple of my guitars, because the high e string has worn a groove in them. I wonder if this would still happen with bone or tusq? I suppose I just measure the old saddle as accurately as possible, & order the nearest size? Or would I have to get specific ones for my Norman B18 & S&P SP6??

" Old Guy is Rocking"
Simon & Patrick Pro Flamed Maple (mmm, nice...)
Norman ST68 acoustic