Topic: lowering action

i want to know if lowering the action on my guitar will help me play, i know it did for mandolin, and my action (i think) is ridiculously high. it feels that way at least, compared to other peoples guitars.

what are the pros and cons of having this done? i heard it makes your instrument have less volume, is this true...again it did with the mando.

it is not something i would do myself but what is done? do they shave the nut and saddle down a bit or is it more complicated than that?

thanks for the help

Mandolin>guitar

Re: lowering action

i think that they sometimes just shave the saddle a little

would they shave the nut (what for ?)
 
lowering the action in that way may may help you play better. a high action can make it hard to fret the strings.

however lowering the action too much will cause fret buzz so have it looked at by someone who knows about guitars

Re: lowering action

You can do it yourself: log on to www.frets.com. It will take you through the steps to lower the saddle and turn the truss rod to straighten the neck. I have done it on a Martin HD-28 and another acoustic guitar. If it reduces volume, it is so minimal that the better playability that you gain more than makes up for it.  Read up on it, talk to a guitar tech for pointers/tips, and then do it yourself, but very carefully.  If you are not confident in doing it, take it to a guitar tech and for a minimal fee they will turn it into a guitar that will be much more fun and easier to play.

Re: lowering action

The following answers assume that the work is done properly:

Pros: Easier to play, easier on your fingers, you sound better and play better.
Cons: None.

- Big D

Granted B chord amnesty by King of the Mutants (Long live the king).
If it comes from the heart and you add a few beers... it'll be awesome! - Mekidsmom
When in doubt ... hats. - B.G. Dude

Re: lowering action

thanks guys...i think i will practice on my camping-yard sale guitar first.

Mandolin>guitar

6 (edited by Detman101 2008-06-05 19:02:15)

Re: lowering action

I lowered my silverburst lp after putting on the strings.
Measure how much lower you want the strings after and ONLY AFTER you have put on whatever strings you will be working with.

(for example; if you measure with "slinkys" and then put on "fat-bottom, skinny-top" strings you're going to have a LOT of fret buzz....like I did with my second guitar.)

After you measure the distance between the string and the frets at the second fret, take that measurement and mark the bottom of your nut (where the seat of the nut meets the neck-top) at HALF of that measurement.
(NOTE:We only take a HALF measurement at the nut because the bridge will perform the other HALF of the lowering effort)
Now, remove the strings from your guitar. Then carefully use a razor or boxcutter to get the laquer or glue from around the edge of your nut where it is seated on the guitar neck, being careful not to nick your neck. Then gently and carefully tap-out your nut with a wooden dowel (Pencil cut in half) and rubber hammer, bracing the neck and body of the guitar.

Once you've got your nut out, clean off the glue from the bottom and back of the nut.
Measure the HALF-DISTANCE you got earlier from your fretboard-strings and mark that distance on the bottom of your nut where it would sit on top the neck.
Now find a flat surface and a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.
Lay the nut down on the sandpaper and rub the nut on the sandpaper until the bottom matches the HALF-DISTANCE measurement you marked on the nut earlier. (That flat surface is HIGHLY important for this part because if the surface is curved in ANY WAY...your nut will sand down curved...and that is very very bad...)

After you are finished, clean the nut with alcohol and let it dry.
Then mount the nut back onto it's place on the neck with elmers glue and clean any excess glue off of the neck. Make sure to use something to clamp the nut in place for 2 hours until the glue is completely dry.

[2 hours later]

(ELECTRIC)
Now, restring your guitar and you will notice that the strings are closer to the fretboard at the head of the guitar. This will help you play easier and faster without the strain encountered at the head of the guitar near the nut. If you have a Gibson guitar, you can use the adjustable bridge to fine tune the second half of the lowering process as you see comfortable.
After lowering the strings to the height you require using the bridge adjustments....retune the guitar and check intonation at the open position and 12th fret on each string. Each open tone should be an octave lower than the tone at the 12th fret.

(ACOUSTIC)
Remove the saddle from your bridge...you know, that little white or cream colored insert.
Measure the HALF-DISTANCE you got earlier from your fretboard-strings and mark that distance on the bottom of your saddle where it would sit inside the briege.
Now find a flat surface and a piece of fine-grit sandpaper.
Lay the saddle down on the sandpaper and rub the saddle on the sandpaper until the bottom matches the HALF-DISTANCE measurement you marked on the saddle earlier. (That flat surface is HIGHLY important for this part because if the surface is curved in ANY WAY...your saddle will sand down curved...and that is very very bad...)
Now, restring your guitar and you will notice that the strings are closer to the fretboard at the bottom of the guitar. If you require the strings to be closer, mark the half-distance on your saddle again and sand it down. Use small increments when sanding because if you go too far...you will have to replace the saddle and start sanding all over again.
After lowering the strings at the saddle to the height you require, retune the guitar and check intonation at the open position and 12th fret on each string. Each open tone should be an octave lower than the tone at the 12th fret.


Once everything is in tune...your guitar has been successfully lowered.



=]
Dm

"Talent instantly recognizes genius,
but mediocrity knows nothing more than itself."

-Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle

Re: lowering action

why not just deepen the slots

Re: lowering action

I lowered my bridge and changed the strings. Sounds completely different. I used Elixir Strings.  I think I like the regular strings better. Any one agree with me?

Re: lowering action

jennymare wrote:

why not just deepen the slots

Unless one has a set of files it's usually better to shave a little off the bottom of the string nut...those files are expensive!

Middleaged Redneck sorta guy who refuses to grow up...passion for music, especially Southern Rock but like bout everything cept Gangsta/Hip Hop. Collect guitars, mandolins, and love to ride Harleys.

10 (edited by lone-woodwose 2008-06-10 18:37:43)

Re: lowering action

im not going to screw around with my good guitar, but i have shaved down the saddle on my FirstAct. it was not too much work, i think it was more work adjusting the truss rod on it actually.

if i have shop tools why not just use a thin kerf saw blade (i would use a hand saw) to lower the slots?

thanks for the replies,
A.

Mandolin>guitar

Re: lowering action

http://192.168.11.6/radiodestiny.html

_-_DAVID_-_
davsdomain@hotmail.com
myspace.com/davsdomain

12 (edited by Detman101 2008-06-10 20:57:35)

Re: lowering action

lone-woodwose wrote:

im not going to screw around with my good guitar, but i have shaved down the saddle on my FirstAct. it was not too much work, i think it was more work adjusting the truss rod on it actually.

if i have shop tools why not just use a thin kerf saw blade (i would use a hand saw) to lower the slots?

thanks for the replies,
A.

Cutting slots in a Nut is a tricky tricky TRICKY business.
Cut them too deep...you wind up with slack-jawed strings that won't tone properly.
Cut them too shallow....your strings pop out of the slots when you hit them.
Cut them too wide....you get horrible buzzing.
Cut them to narrow...you snap strings and can't intonate properly.
Cut any of the slots at the wrong angle and you can take a random shot at one of the problems listed above (And sometimes a combination of them).

It's safer and easier to just shave the bottom of the nut.

=]
Dm

"Talent instantly recognizes genius,
but mediocrity knows nothing more than itself."

-Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle

Re: lowering action

You can't link back to your local network from the outside.

IE: that link would work from within your network but it is not accessible by outside parties unless you allow us entry.

And I don't think you want to give the entire net access to your personal/home network...hehe.


=]
Dm

"Talent instantly recognizes genius,
but mediocrity knows nothing more than itself."

-Sir Arthur Conan-Doyle

Re: lowering action

The best bet is to simply let a Guitar Tec do it, i don't think it costs too much.
Normaly the truss rod is enough to lower the strings; if you have to go shaving the bridge and the nut, how good of a Guitar was it in the first place.
Leave it to the Guitar Tec?
Headcase.