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Guitar chord forum - chordie → Acoustic → Restringing Guitar
I kind of recall years ago it was recommended when changing out your strings it was better to change one at a time versus removing all the strings at one time. The reason, I believe, was with all the stress removed it could cause the truss rod to need readjusting. Is this still true?
Thanks for your replys.
John
I always just change one at a time for that reason...
Brian.
I usually change mine one at a time. With that said, About every 6 months I'll change them all at once to allow me to clean and condition the fretboard. I've never had any trouble but feel it's safer to change them 1 at a time normally just incase! Peace!
I've always heard that as well, but if you go to Taylers web site they remove all the strings at the same time then wax and clean the fret board then put all srtings back on. I would like to hear some other opinions on this topic.
i used to change mine one at a time but only so it was easier to retune the strings.
But now I just take them all off and give everything a good clean.
I have noticed any trouble with the truss rod at all
But it does sound like a good cause to change one at a time.
Ken
I learned how to change from justin sandercoe video lesson:
http://www.justinguitar.com/html/genera … tring.html
He addresses the issue at about 6:35 of the part 2 video. Says it's ok to change them all at the same time as long as you don't leave the guitar without strings for days. Makes sense - it's always recommended to loosen your strings all when traveling, so I don't see how 10 15 minutes could really harm anything. That said, I have a cheap guitar and may feel different if it was a $3,000 investment.
I've heard this one at at string change thing before maybe its right maybe its wrong.
I've changed all the strings at one go many times on different guitars and I can't say I've had any problems with action or such afterwards.
The difference in tone or ring on a new set of strings is something not to be missed it sometimes transforms the guitar.
Topdown I like Justine Sandercoe the guy a great guitarist, tutor and a good song writer.
But after years of changing strings by my DIY method I decided to follow Justine's instructions on his utube vid as used by a real pro.
and it took me 3 times as long and I broke the high e while tightening. 
I guess I'm not cut out to be pro.
Ark
I am really scared when I change strings. Long time ago, I started with the little E-string, followed by a B-string and when trying to tune that guitar, the B snapped, and hit my face. It 's been 30 years ago, but even today, and having strings, I am scared. So maybe I should buy a tuning machine, you put it on the guitar head, on a string tuning knob, and it winds the string real automatic.
My advice to avoid over tightening is to change strings then tighten them up till they feel like they usually would, not too hard to press, not too saggy. You'll be surprised how close to true tuning you can get this way.
Most of you who snapped a string were probably going an octave (or two!) too high. So you tightened the string plugged in the tuner and then went up from there. The moral is if you are off wind down and see if you find the note. String will go loose before you get an octave too low in most cases.
I've read longer debates than this one on changing. Consensus seemed to be how regular you change strings. If you do it often (every few weeks) then change one at a time. If you leave them on for half a year then feel free to remove all at once. It's quite shocking if you go to a pro-shop and they just get out some pliers and cut them; ping, ping, ping!
Maybe not the best way but here's how I do it. I start by making sure my "A", "D", "G", "B" & "e' string are in tune. I then remove my low "E" string and replace it. After replacing it tune that string to the "A" string. Then remove the "A" string, replace it and tune to my "D" string. I continue with all strings until all strings are replaced. All that's left is a final tweak to complete tuning.
Also, when I am replacing srtings I place my guitar in a stand, facing me. This seems to be the easier method of all I've tried.
NELA
They also say after replacing the strings you should stretch the string a little so it stays in tune.
They also say that you shouldn't have a floyd rose bridge on your first guitar! I actually made that up but it took me 2 hours to get the bridge set approximately right 
They also say that you shouldn't have a floyd rose bridge on your first guitar! I actually made that up but it took me 2 hours to get the bridge set approximately right
hay bonedaddy how did set your bridge? I have an old 12 string I need to lower the action on.
I took my guitar (Seagull S6) back to where I bought it. They had told me to bring it back in a couple of months so they could check it out and put new strings on it. The guy that changed them changed them all at once. 
I usually remove all the strings and then give the guitar and fretboard a good cleaning...then as soon as possible restring. I've never had a problem with warping or shifting of the neck...that's also a good time to clean and lubricate the bridge parts too! I'll use a can of compressed air (computer supply) to blow out dust, lint, dirt, etc.. also remove any screws or parts that have rust and clean them. One exception is that on my mandolins I typically change the strings one a time so that the others can hold the bridge in place...the same would be for some archtop guitars....
hay bonedaddy how did set your bridge? I have an old 12 string I need to lower the action on.
The Floyd Rose is a 'floating bridge' in that it pivots to facilitate extreme bending of notes with a tremelo arm. There are two springs behind the guitar which provide the tension to keep the bridge flat against the body of the guitar.
As you increase the tension on the strings to tune your guitar, this pulls the bridge forward. If the tension on the bridge is increased, this tightens the strings, resulting in increasing the pitch.
As you tune in the top strings, the bottom strings loosen because of the tension on the bridge, and vice versa. Bloody nightmare!
That is, of course an electric guitar, which has no business on this forum. I wouldn't know how to lower the action on an acoustic which is a shame cos mine needs doing too!
Good luck
Nela, I've played for 6 years and never thought about changing my strings when it's in the stand---tried it last night and it worked great, thanx for the tip!
How about a happy medium?
I loosen the E, A, D strings one at a time until they are floppy.
Cut 'em right in the middle. (Makes unwinding and pin removal easier)
Clean and wipe that half of the fretboard, neck, etc. A dusty guitar is a sad guitar.
Put new E, A, and D strings, tighten to nearly (but under) tuned.
Repeat with G, B, and e strings.
Tune.
(I do the following to stretch the strings out, and keep a better tuning right off the bat)
Lay the guitar on your lap. While you're sitting, of course. If you're laying down or standing, you don't really have a lap, now, do ya?
For each string, put index finger on 12th fret, pull string straight up off the neck near the sound hole, just enough to stretch it out a bit (maybe 1/2 to 1 inch off the neck), with a tug-a-tug motion (you know what I mean) and let it slap back.
Putting your index finger on the 12th fret serves two purposes: It's harder to break a string when you're only really pulling on the bottom half, and if it does snap, there's not enough length on either side of the string to come up and put your good eye out.
Tune again. Duh.
Now, go to the fridge and get a beer.
If it's warm enough outside, sit yourself down on the porch and strum that thing.
(The guitar, not the beer. You drink the beer.)
Welcome to chordie watsonchad, excellent first post. I enjoyed the humor.
Nice, watsonchad.
Anyone have advice on pegs? I seem to be unable to get them out without scuffing up the bridge, and I find it difficult to get them in tight enough (I am always afraid I will push my hand right through the top, and end up with the pre-mature Willie Nelson look.
I have a peg winder with that little divot which is supposed to be a "peg puller" but I find it to be as useful as a football bat.
anyone?
Oldnewbie ,
Your local music store should have a tool like the thing on the winder but better quality and properly designed to do the job of pulling .
Back on topic though , I take my off then linseed oil the fingerboard then restring.
And yes , as has been mentioned , your guitar reaching equilibrium again is directly commensurate to how long it has been unstrung . For some reason that seems to be worse on violins . I've been known to cringe when I have someone bring me a fiddle that's been in their attic for years , and they want strings put on it so someone can play it ......tommorow.............
Nice, watsonchad.
Anyone have advice on pegs? I seem to be unable to get them out without scuffing up the bridge, and I find it difficult to get them in tight enough (I am always afraid I will push my hand right through the top, and end up with the pre-mature Willie Nelson look.
Good question, I had to change the strings on my acoustic and had a bit of trouble getting them out...i ended up using some pliars, which marked the edges of the pins...
I have a peg winder with that little divot which is supposed to be a "peg puller" but I find it to be as useful as a football bat.
I know not to get one now!
Yeah, Tibernius, I have used pliers myself...
Last string change, I pushed the pegs through from beneath (which requires removing all strings at once, to stay on topic! ). that seemed to work okay. I used the flat edge of the tuner winder to push up on the pegs from below.
I called ALvarez about this issue and spoke with the guy who does the work. He said that when they change strings they invariably remove them all, clean the neck and then re-string it. They feel that as long as the guitar is not left unstrung for a while there should be no problem.
They also say after replacing the strings you should stretch the string a little so it stays in tune.
Justin demonstrates this in his video lesson. While he is WAY more agressive than I would be, I did it that last time I changed strings and only needed to make one minor adjustment the next day. In the past I was making major adjustments for at least 2 days. It makes sense that a performer needs a way to restirng a string and only tune it once.
Guitar chord forum - chordie → Acoustic → Restringing Guitar
