Looking for advice - evaluating/adjusting my Martin

Hi Dave,

Welcome to the forum. I would take both guitars in so that the luthier can see, and feel, the difference to know what you are looking for.

Please keep us posted on progress.

Roger

It's good to have you with us, Dave! I think you'll find our family quite diverse (mutant or otherwise ) in our talents, always ready to lend a hand, and very caring when one or more of us needs a shoulder or advice.

As you can see from my list of instruments, I too own a Rogue  - though not a 6 string. We have in common the fact that our gear doesn't need the BIG name to be comfortable to play. I find this to be the case pretty much across the board, that is, if it feels good and plays the way you want it to and sounds good, who cares that it's not a Gretsch White Falcon?

Again, welcome - and now, as I tell all our new friends: Teach us something!

Bill

Agree with them above - get thee to a luthier, pronto! Andale!

You don't say what it is about your beater that "...is more enjoyable to play than my Martin" but I will assume it's prob'ly the action, which any halfway decent professional will notice and be able to fix, tout suite. If it's sumpin else, you may have "some 'splainin' to do" to make it clear to him...

If it can't be adapted to your liking, you have a pretty lovely 'trade chip,' as they say in baseball... cha-ching!

And, as with what them above says, Welcome Aboard

.

Welcome to the forum, dmarker. I agree with the other comments but think some very important things have been left out.

!.  Did you buy your Martin new?
2, Did you fill out the registration and warrenty papers?
3. Did you send that paperwork in as directed?
4. Do you have copies of all this paperwork?

If you answered yes to the 1st three questions I would be talking directly to the Martin folks. You can find their "Service Department" phone # online, so give them a call. Next, if you do decide to have a luther work on your Martin you need to make sure that person is a "Certified Martin Tech". This is very important. If thay person is NOT a "Certified Martin Tech" your warrenty will be voided and you guitar will be worth less money if you decide to ever sell it. You don't want that to happen. Now, if you answered yess to #4 then that is good news. If you answered no then that's not really bad. Wigh all that paperwork your Martin can be sent back to the factory and you can have them bring it back to spec's. This may take up to a year to get your guitar back, due to their peoduction time, and cost some major bucks. If you did send in your paperwork but can't find it, all you have to do is call them and give them the year made and the serial # and they can go from there. There is a Martin Guitar Forum bub it wull take you weeks just to join. Anyway, my best advice is if you want to have your guitar worked on close to home you gotta make sure the luther is a authorized to work on Martin guitars.  Also, before you take it in to be worked on you need to know / understand what you want done. Since your guitar is 20 years old and has been sitting up for awhile, repairs could be simple or major. You may only need a minor set-up. Then, again, you may need a complete neck re-set. Anyway, that's all I got to type.

Nela

Thanks for all the responses, welcomes and good suggestions.  I will try to answer the questions that you all posed, which will probably lead to a few more questions from me.

Yes, I bought the Martin brand new from Dave's Guitar Shop in La Crosse WI.  I dug out my file tonight and still have all the original paperwork.  I remember completing the paperwork at the shop and they sent it in.  The only work done on it since was June 2013 when I took it back to Dave's.  According to the Martin website, they are a certified repair shop.  I took some notes when I got home because my memory ain't what it used to be.  "They tightened the truss rod and lowered the bridge.  Also oiled the fret bar and polished the frets.  Watch the slight crack at the base of the headstock - really only cosmetic unless it changes over time. Also put on new strings.  Took about an hour and cost $30."

I've been watching the tiny hairline crack in the headstock and it hasn't changed.

The difference between the two guitars seems more complex than just higher action.  I think I should take some time to play them side by side, and really concentrate on what is different, describe it by writing it down.  How much tweaking can a luthier do besides action?  Can I rely on their advise when they play the guitar?  Try to find someone with experience to play it before I take it in?  Or, even though my skills have gone down, just trust what I'm feeling.

I always assumed I would have my Martin for life.  I don't see that trading her in is something I'd want to do at this time.  I traded in the first "real" guitar I ever had - a Sigma that I bought in 1983 - on the Martin purchase.  I still regret that I did that.  (At that time, didn't know that there was a whole community of you guys that collect guitars!)

I will take the advice of getting into a practice routine to build up my muscles.  It may take sometime to fit a trip to a repair shop into our schedule anyways.  Looks like I have two options - back to Dave's in La Crosse or there's a one-man business in Eau Claire.  If I go back to Dave's, how much could the guitar have changed on it's own in two years?  If anyone knows anything about either of these places, good or bad, I would be most interested.  If Martin certified, I should be good either way?

Forgot to ask last night - does string gauge have any influence?  I have always used extra light gauge (carry-over from my 12-string days).  Yes, I have the same strings on both guitars.

And in case you're wondering, my renewed practicing will be on the Martin.  While the Rogue plays nicer right now, sure doesn't sound nicer.  Plus I can tell that her feelings are hurt when I'm playing the Rogue and she's sitting in the corner in her case. 

Thanks again for the advice and encouragement.

Dave

Lots of great tips & advice for you, Dave. I've got nothing to add but a big "Welcome to Chordie!" we all hope to see you as a regular participant in the various discussion forums.

Play what sounds good. 

Play it a lot. 

I don't find Martins to be the easiest playing guitars, generally preferring Taylors strictly for feel.  But it's tough to beat their sound.  When I had the choice between buying a Martin and a Taylor, I bought a Guild.  It sounded better. 

To repeat: Play what sounds good.  Play it a lot.  You'll get used to it.

As usual I stand with Zurf.  I've been playing since I was 5 and I still play on my $200 used guitar that I got for Christmas in 1983. 

Brands, schmands (except for guild. I do love guild.)

UPDATE -

As was suggested, I got thee to a luthier pronto (well sort of pronto).

We took my Martin to Dave's Guitar Shop in La Crosse this morning.  The tech gave it a full examination.  His main observation/concern was that the top showed signs of dehydration as it was flat to slightly concave.  It also has a slight hairline crack, maybe 1/2" on the edge of the top shoulder (probably not using the right term here).  This seems odd because it (obviously) is August in Wisconsin - the warmest and most humid month of the year.  I always store the guitar in it's case.  When we got home, I checked our little weather station: 74 degrees in our house and 60% relative humidity.

I have never used a guitar humidifier.  Our indoor relative humidity does go down to about 25% in the middle of winter - pretty much standard here because if you go higher, ice/condensation will form on the inside of the windows on the colder nights.

I left the guitar at Dave's.  They will go through the steps to make sure it's fully hydrated - about a week, and then we'll go from there for adjustments.  He will glue up the crack so it doesn't get worse.  Also plan to start using a humidifier in the case from now on.

Two other topics we discussed.  There is some fret wear that he will want to address after the main problem.  Also, I have been using Martin extra-lights (.010" gauge if I am reading the package correctly) - not sure why I do this, just started twenty years and never thought about changing.  We will be moving up to heavier strings.

Since we were there, I played a whole bunch of guitars.  I really liked a couple, but not nearly as much as the one I have - hoping that she'll be OK!

Again, the signs of a dehydrated top really baffle me.

I would most certainly appreciation any thoughts/observations/experiences you all might have on this situation.

Thanks again!

Dave