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60's No name Classical with a Fishman p/u system.
90's Danelectro Hodad with dual humbuckers
60's Teisco Del Rey EP-7 with added piezo p/u
00's Fluke Ukulele Tenor with K&K pickup
00's Washburn Lyon Dreadnought converted to 5-String (originally found in the garbage, now one of my favorite instruments)
80's Washburn Piece of Crap 5-string Bass

I usually play my piezo instruments and generally plug into the PA. On the rare occasion I play with a magnetic pickup, I plug first into my Visual Sound Route 66 pedal and then into what ever small, tube amp I can borrow (lately I've used my drummer's 50's Silvertone 5w tube amp and love it.)

You are absolutely correct. I should be more careful with statements like that, especially when talking about acoustic guitars.

Berringer stuff is really high quality (soundwise) and really low quality (constructionwise). If this is a PA you're going to be lugging around to shows in the trunk of your car, I wouldn't expect it to last too long before needing some kind of repair. If you're planning on using it in your practice space and you leave it there and you treat it with respect, you should be very happy with it.

It is the bass instrument for mariachi. It is fretless and played by plucking chords.

Those are massive generalizations. A tube amp derives it's sound from vacuum tubes where as a solid state amp uses transistors. The net result is that tube amps tend to have a more "natural" sounding compression where solid state amps tend to be somewhat more abrasive sounding when distorted. When played clean (no distortion) solid state amps can be more "accurate" in their reproduction of your guitar's sound. One example of this would be the Roland JC-120, a horrible distorted tone but one of the cleanest (if somewhat cold)( clean tones available.

I generally play acoustic instruments and while a tube amp can "warm up" my sound in a nice way, I generally gravitate toward solid-state amps for their range and versatility with my application.

My advice to you would be to take a friend whose opinion you trust to a local music store and try a few different things out. These things are very subjective. Over the years I have wasted a lot of money buying things I assumed where the best just because they were one thing or an other. Just listen carefully to your own ears. They won't lie to you.

Good luck.

That is not quite correct, on a baritone uke the strings are tuned just like the highest (in terms of pitch) strings on a guitar (low to high) DGBE.
Most other ukes the strings are tuned (low to high) gCEA with the G string being tuned an octave higher than the the others. This is the "My Dog Has Fleas" tuning in C.
Occasionally, people (myself included) will tune a tenor uke with a lowered G string so that it matched the highest four strings on a guitar with a capo at the 5th fret. This is referred to as C tuning with a reentrant G string.
Some old timers will go for a D tuning which is aDF#B with a raised octave for the A string. This is more common on soprano ukes.

You seem a little preoccupied with noisiness. What type of guitar/amp do you currently play? Not that cleanness isn't important but I would caution you against it being your main criteria in selecting your amp. The tone should always be your top priority. If you purchase a quality piece of equipment (and for around $400 that is certainly possible) noisiness will not be an amp problem. Most of the time, static and buzzing can be traced back to a loose connection somewhere (often in the guitar), a bad cord/cords or poor grounding. Also, if you play a guitar with single coils, get used to the idea of some buzzing (especially under fluorescent lights). There is a reason why humbucker pick ups are so named.

No offense intended but why would you pay anything for a guitar without first trying it out? (unless it's some kind of rare collector's item) Anyway, I'd have a professional set your tele up and spend a few bucks on a descent amp. Half the sound from electric guitars is in the amp.