176

(55 replies, posted in Acoustic)

I think we're doing it wrong.

Like many folks on this forum, I've been struggling with barre chords for months.  I've gotten to the point where I can do about two 10-minute sets of barre exercises in a two hour period, and then my thumb is DONE.

So, last night as I was massaging the web between my thumb and index finger (I've never had my thumb turn black, fortunately) I got to thinking about what I was doing.  When I first unpacked this guitar (Gretsch 5120), I laid my fingers on the neck in an E-form barre at the third fret (Gmajor), and it rang so effortlessly that I was stunned.  I knew that I had found MY guitar.  So why couldn't I do that all the time?

I decided to just put my fingers on the fretboard as lightly as I could to get a good ring.  To minimize ingrained bad habits, I stood up.  When I laid my fingers on the fretboard, I found myself not sqeezing with my thumb so much as pulling back with my upper arm and shoulder (which had to be counterbalanced by my right forearm on the body of the guitar).  The chord rang, just as it had that first time.  I ran through my entire ten minute set of excersises--no cramps.  I took a short break to think about what was happening, and did it again-- no cramps.  I ran through a set of power chords, some blues rhythms, and did the barres AGAIN-- no cramps.

Finger precision is now the whole ball of wax, since trying to muscle the chord into sounding is out; but that's just a matter of practice.

Boys and girls, I feel like I've found the Holy Grail!

177

(167 replies, posted in Electric)

Eric Claption
Django Rheinhardt
Mark Knopfler
Buddy Guy
B.B. King

178

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Thanks, that was kind of what I have in mind.

By way of an update, my current project is replacing the pickups in a Gretsch 5120 archtop.  Since I don't really have a workshop, I'm having a real luthier replace the tuners for me.  Once it comes back from the shop, I'm going to pull the strings, replace the tune-o-matic with a 'rocking bar' bridge (no big deal), and then replace the stock pickups with some TV Jones models that I ordered.  After that, I get to decide whether or not to change the stock linear-taper pots out for 'audio-taper' ones.  At which point, the only original hardware left will be the frets and the (licensed) Bigsby.

So far, the total outlay for this guitar, parts and labor, is $982.  If all goes well, it should sound almost identical to a $4000 Setzer Signature model (without the dice knobs).

I use the grey dunlop or a fender 'thin' for strumming, but I like a stiffer one for picking.

I'm going to have to put some sticky gunk on my guitar to hold different picks if I ever think I'm good enough to play for public consumption!

180

(14 replies, posted in Electric)

The test would have to be approached scientifically, only altering one variable at a time.  Same player, cord, amp, piece of music; just switch guitars.  I would probably specify that the player give it his best each time through.  You'd have to do it by comparing recordings to allow the player to get familiar with each test instrument.  Effects make a difference too, I think we are all aware that guitar models are affected differently by various effects.

I know that over on TheGretschPage some of the posters do this sort of thing with recordings of different pickups in their axes, but they always label the clips (that's how I decided which pickups to order for my 5120).  To be truly scientific about it, they should only be numbered.  Still, you're also testing the aesthetic sense of the listener and I have no idea how to correct for that.  I suppose by averaging the results from a large number of unique listeners you could get a statistically significant sample.

Another question: is comparing different brands an apples-to-oranges problem?  Or can we assume that it's safe to compare solid bodies (Strat vs. Les Paul), archtops (Gretsch vs. Gibson), and acoustics (Taylor vs. Martin)?

181

(6 replies, posted in Electric)

The whole relic thing seems a bit upside down to me.

In the art world, the purpose of a reproduction or print is to put great art into the price range of the masses.  In the case of relic'd guitars, the purpose seems to be to put copies of famous instruments on the walls of a few fanatical collectors.  This aside from the problem of whether one of these mostrosities constitutes 'Art.'

I imagine a conversation which goes something like this: 

Rich guy #1: "Check out my new acquisition, man."

Rich guy #2:  "Whoah, EVH's frankenstein.  Is it real?"

RG1:  "It's a real relic."

RG2:  "So, Eddie never played it?"

RG1:  "No."

RG2:  "He never even touched it?"

RG1:  "No.  But it has a certificate of authenticity."

RG2:  "How does it sound?"

RG1:  "Are you kidding?  I paid too much for it to ever take it down and play it.  In fact, I'm considering having it hermetically sealed in a nitrogen atmosphere and locking it in a vault away from all light so it won't fade.  Isn't it great?" 

I suppose everyone needs a hobby, including folks with too much money and too little sense.

182

(14 replies, posted in Electric)

I would go so far as to say that most vintage instruments suffer, if you can call it that, from the 'stradivarius effect'-- the subjective tone that your brain adds to the sound independent of what your ears actually hear.  That is to say, if you can't see the difference between two instruments/setups on an oscilloscope, then no actual difference exists.

We're of course neglecting the virtuosity of the player for purposes of this discussion. wink

183

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

It might be less of a hassle with your 'hissing' guitar to just gut it and replace all the electronics.  At least then you can be reasonably certain that you don't have rust inside something, preventing a connection.

I should let someone else with more experience answer your second question first, but I'll take a stab:  If you have the tools and confidence, probably not too difficult.  You will need to take off the pickguard, remove all the electronics, make some routing patterns based on your desired pickup dimensions and orientations, and then rout the body (and expand the holes in the pickguard) to fit.  With the coil taps, you're also going to have to replace the regular five-position switch with something that will handle whatever combinations you want for the pickups.  Before that, you'll have to come up with a schematic and wiring diagram, so you'll know what goes where when the time comes to put it all together.

184

(6 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

I own the 5120, and it is by far the best value for the price I've played.  Looks great, plays easy, sounds good.  It's also easy to mod-- take a look at http://gretschpages.com/forum/ .  In the "Modern Guitars" forum, you will find a TON of info on the 5120 (and every other Gretsch guitar).

As I mentioned to Cytania in another post, you can replace the pickups with some TV Jones Classics, and have a guitar that sounds like a Setzer Signature edition for under a thousand dollars.

Sad to say, I've not played the Wildkat, so I can't give you any help there.

185

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Is it a staticy hiss or a hum?  If you have single coils on this particular guitar, they can be pretty noisy with 60-cycle hum.  Not much help for that, other than using shielded wire for the harness, and using copper foil to line the pickup cavities.  You'll need to ground (earth) that too.

Does it always hiss, or is it more prominent when you adjust a particular control?  That might point you toward other issues-- if you had a rusty jack, the whole guitar might have gotten wet at some point (condensation, maybe?) which could dirty up the contacts in any of the pots or switches.

Also, cold solder joints are easy to miss; they look pretty normal to an inexperienced eye, but dont' provide good electrical contact.  I would pull all the pots and switches and take a good look at all the solder joints, paying particular attention to the ground (earth) connections.  If any of the solder joints look dull rather than shiny, that is probably your culprit.  The fix in this case is pretty easy, you put an aligator clip on the wire leading to the pickup (or any bleed capacitors that might be present, to act as a heat sink) and touch a hot soldering iron to the wire just above the suspect connection.  Hold it there just until the solder turns shiny and starts to flow, then take it away.  Put everything back together and test it out.

Of course, if you're doing this close to the guitar, cover it with something non-flamable.  Hot solder can pop and spit, and that will muck up your finish in a heartbeat.

186

(8 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Well, if you trust wikipedia, you can look here:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P-90

Seems trustworthy to me (in this case).

187

(7 replies, posted in Acoustic)

Eb can be played with an A-form barre chord at the 6th fret (bar the 6th fret with the index finger, and make the A chord shape normally 2 frets up), or with an E-form barre at the 11th fret (same idea). 

You could also play it as a D-form barred at the first fret, as a C-form barred at the 3rd fret, or as a G-form (ouch that one is hard!) at the 8th fret.

Now that you're thoroughly confused, I'll leave it to someone else to type up the tabs for all that. smile

188

(8 replies, posted in Electric)

I thought it was a requirement for all guitar players (and soon to be guitar players) to have Spinal Tap memorized.

Heck, I have it in my .sig line!

189

(8 replies, posted in Electric)

Why do you need an upgrade?  It already goes to 11.

190

(8 replies, posted in Electric)

I need to get me one of those!

191

(24 replies, posted in Acoustic)

'Tab' is a type of musical notation specifically applicable to guitar.  'Fingerstyle' is a playing style. 

You can write tabs for strumming, in which the fret numbers line up vertically; if the fret numbers don't line up, it means to play the individual notes.  You can do either with a pick (strumming or 'flatpicking'), and you can do either with your thumb/fingertips in any of the various types of 'fingerstyle' (clawhammer, Travis).

192

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

I think you're exactly right, cytania.  It would seem to me that building a few will give major insight into repairs and maintenance; I'm building the tuition and materials (and books and tools) cost into the business plan, so all that will count as assets if and when the shop becomes a reality.

From my discussions with my local shop guy, some of the requirements for carrying the big brands are pretty steep: $100,000 minimum buy-in for Gibson, I think he said $30,000 for Fender.  Those couple of "to die for" axes on the back wall will probably be from my own collection (again, counted as business assets at start-up).

Thanks for the input, and keep the ideas coming!

193

(10 replies, posted in Acoustic)

When someone says ‘walk’ in relation to guitar, particularly acoustic guitar, I think of a bluegrass/country sort of chord transition lick used when strumming. 

For instance, if you were changing between the chords C and G and back, in between strums, you would flatpick a walk like so:

o--------3--------o--
1--------o--------1--
0--------o--------o--
2--------o--------2--
3-3-2-o-2---o-2-3--
x--------3-3------x--

If you combine this with a pattern like Jerome describes above, you're pretty much in the country business.

194

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Tibernius wrote:

Since this is still about guitar-making, how much does it cost to make a guitar? I know that's a "how long is a piece of string" question, but can someone give me a rough estimate?

I'm seeing solid-body kits from (I think) a couple of different makers that are in the $220-$280 range, depending on what wood is used for the body and fretboard.  That's with frets pre-set, and all the electronics included.

Me, I think I'd want just the wood, and add my own choices for hardware and tuners.  In that case the price would go up, probably pretty substantially.

Even if I decide to just do this sort of thing as a hobby, I need to get set up with a tax ID number just so I can get the goodies wholesale...  smile

195

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

bootleger wrote:
Tibernius wrote:

Hey, since you know about the electronics, maybe you can fix a problem i'm having with one of my guitars. As soon as i plug the guitar in, there's a horrible buzzing noise from the amp. It only happens with one guitar, and it stops when the lead (cord) is touched. (metal ends on the cord)

Any ideas?

Loose ground (earth) wire either on your input jack or on the ground (earth) to your pot.

Bootlegger.

I could have sworn I responded to that post, with almost exactly the same information.  smile

196

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Thanks, Tibernius.  I have no illusions about making any size of fortune; as a matter of fact, I rather expect a large portion of the business to come from band instrument sales and rentals, rather than building custom guitars smile

Now I just have to clear some space for a workbench...

197

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Ok, perhaps I need to give a little background:

I live in the central US.  I am in my mid-forties, and looking hard at changing careers in 3 years, plus or minus.  I am currently looking into the possibility of opening a small music shop, certainly to include guitar repair/maintenance, possibly to include build-to-order jobs. 

I think I might be able to do this for a couple of reasons:  1) I have a good lead-time to do my research and acquire skills and needed material; 2) I have an uncle who has some luthier experience, who was a shop teacher for 30 years (he ought to be able to 'introduce' me to the trade); 3) after ditching my current job, I will have the time and cash needed to attend a reputable course.  Last but not least-- I love guitars.

Part of my current problem is that I really don't know enough yet to know what questions to ask!  I do own 3 guitars that I would feel comfortable experimenting on, and I can do a setup on a solid-body electric.  I'm getting ready to change out the pickups and mounts (maybe the switch, pots and wiring as well) in a hollowbody electric I own (I was an electronics technician in a past life, that stuff doesn't scare me).

If you guys just keep pointing me to decent books and websites, I can figure out enough to know what questions to ask!  Keep it coming!

198

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

Thanks for the links and input.

199

(44 replies, posted in Guitars and accessories)

I know we have at least a couple of luthiers on the forums here, and I was wondering if any of you have advice for someone considering taking up the trade?

Any roadblokcs to look out for, schools to look into or avoid?  How much space do you need?  About how much to expect to spend on tools?

Is it a viable business for you, how do you go about promoting yourself?  Do you have a certificate of some kind, or did you just start tinkering?

I recall a quote from Dweezil Zappa: "If you do something for 8 hours a day, you eventually get good at it."

I just wish I had that extra 8 hours, without giving up sleep (and still being able to draw a paycheck).