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It's beautiful Pix!  Keep up the good work!  Have you done this to an Ovation yet?

I've got a Digitech RP-500 that I'm quite happy with.  I couple it with looper pedal and run them both through an additional volume pedal to balance the two units as required.  This works well for me, but there are as many solutions as there are people who play guitar!  I'm sure that I haven't found the ultimate solution, so the quest is always in front of me.

For you electronics wizards out there: Is there such a thing as an "Effects Coordinator" or "Signal Path Therapist". If not your services are needed.  Is there someone that builds pedal boards to customer spec for a reasonable fee?

Mine's an'81 Balladeer model 1112.  I bought it new from a store in Woostah, Mass (Worchestershire) in Feb '82.  It was my first guitar and I still have it and still play it all the time. I had it refretted in the late 1990's. It has always been my number 1 (in fact, that's what I call it). It was built with a mahogany neck and an ebony fret  board. The spruce top has aged to that nice Gretsch Orange color that I just love.  Can't say enough good things about an old Ovation.

Russell is absolutely correct.  String gages are measured in Standard American Engineering Standards (SAE for short).  I don't know why.  Its just the way it is.  Most string sets are referred to as 10's, 11's, 12's etc. This is the size of the first string (high E) in the set, in thousandths of an inch; properly written .010", .011", .012" etc.   The rest of the strings follow based on a ratio of the first or smallest diameter string.  Custom sizes that are not held to normal standards are usually refered to on the packaging. Smaller sizes are, of course, easier to play. Larger gages are more difficult to play but sound better due to the tonal advantages of thicker strings (none of this means a horse's patoot if you're a metalhead cause you're playing .008's no matter what).  If you decide to play .010 gage strings on your new Martin, you may not be happy with the sound.  Acoustic guitars need thicker gages to drive their tops and produce the proper frequencies that they were designed for.  You'll have to find a happy medium between what you are comfortable playing and what sound and tonal range you find acceptable. It's a balancing act for sure.  Eventually, you'll find what works for you. Lately, I buy my strings by the dozen, so it's important to find a string set that works for you as well as a string brand or brands that fits your economic situation.

Guitarpix is absolutely correct.  My 72 Guild 12-string has exactly the problem he describes.  I was not the first owner.  Whoever that was had decided that the best way to compensate for the bellying, was to sand the bridge shorter and shorter. In the end they sold it or traded it at a used instrument store.  I found it. Paid cheap for it.  I humidified it and strung it with light gage strings in open G tuning (DGDGBD) and it plays pretty good. Not great. It still sounds awesome which is why I hang on to it.  Just something to be aware of if you are in the 12 string acoustic market.  On the other hand, if your rolling around in some extra money, Rainsong makes a bullet proof 12 string acoustic and Ovation makes a 12 string that is almost as durable.

It's just a partial Barre Chord.  It's easier for some because you don't have to play the whole barre chord. Try playing a barred F chord (133211) versus the short version (XX3211). Some people find the more complex chord easier because of a leverage advantage. Others have an easier time with the abbreviated version.  Either way, you're gonna learn one, or both.  You will be assimilated.:)

Jimi Hendrix and Stevie Ray Vaughan are two guys that you'd think didn't even have time to sing AND play the guitar at the same time.  I can (after much practice) do some of the things these two greats did.  What I cannot do is play and sing Arlo Guthrie's "Alice's Restaurant".  I can play it. I just haven't figured out how he sang it and played it at the same time and I've seen him do it live.  Absolutely amazing to me!  Anyway, long story short, everyone learns differently.  Keep at it and you'll find your niche.  That's the key.  Keep searching.

Doc,
What about just tuning one of your fine guitars to an open tuning and playing with a slide or bar?  Sorry, if you've already discussed this in another post,  I was just curious if you had tried something like open D, E, G or A.
Best Wishes

hate to reiterate but couldn't resist the rhyme. All the bar chords are just bar/ barre chords. there's minor forms and major forms and 4 differents way you can play 'em. learn the 4 different ways and maybe someday you'll play 'em and never forget 'em.

Fishman Ellipse Matrix Blend is an under saddle Piezo and an internal condensor mic at the end of a positionable gooseneck.  I love it, but the mic has a tendency to easily feedback in a live setting.  Controls are all inside the sound hole and include: mic-piezo blend, volume, phase switch and mic trim.  Operates on a 9 volt battery that seems to last about 2-6 months depending on your gigging schedule.

No on-board tuner.

I agree with guitarpix.  Martin SP's are the way to go.  Not only on Martin's, but any acoustic guitar.  When I was younger, I played .012's.  Now I play .011's.

dfoskey,
  My first rule when buying a new guitar:  Change the strings.  I don't care if the manufacturer put those strings on yesterday.  Change them.  Change them before you play the first chord.  Change them before you plug it in for the first time.  Change them to whatever your favorite strings are.  Assume that the only reason those strings are on there is to hold tension on the neck.  Until that guitar is yours, that is the only purpose they serve, so change them. That will probably solve a lot of problems right off the bat.  You will probably have to readjust that saddle again for intonation,  but Tune-o-matics are pretty easy to deal with.  Good luck and let me know what happens please.